Manufacturing Terms Every Designer Should Know Before Talking to a Factory

Why the Language of Manufacturing Matters

If you’re coming from a design background, stepping into manufacturing can feel like landing in a foreign country — same goal, totally different language. Factories throw around terms like MOQ, BOM, or CMT, and if you don’t speak their lingo, communication can quickly break down. That’s where most new brands lose credibility before the first sample is even made.

But here’s the good news: you don’t need a degree in production management to keep up. Mastering a handful of key manufacturing terms will instantly make you sound like an insider, and help you avoid rookie mistakes that cost time and money.

Let’s look at the essentials.

Core Manufacturing Terms You’ll Hear in Every Factory

MOQ — Minimum Order Quantity

This is one of the first questions any clothing manufacturer will ask. MOQ stands for Minimum Order Quantity, meaning the smallest number of pieces you’re required to produce per style

(Same cut, different color? That counts as two styles.)

MOQs can range anywhere from 50 to 5,000 units — and they directly affect your pricing. Lower quantities often mean higher per-unit costs, so balancing order size with budget is key.

QC — Quality Control

This is where good production stands apart from bad. Quality Control (QC) ensures every garment leaving the factory meets your standards — catching issues like fabric flaws, poor stitching, or color inconsistencies.

Pro tip: If you’re working with a custom clothing manufacturer, always ask about their QC checkpoints during production, not just at the end.

Shrinkage Factor

Ever washed a sample and wondered why it suddenly fits a toddler? That’s shrinkage. The shrinkage factor measures how much a fabric changes after washing or finishing — usually split into X (width) and Y (length) directions.

For jersey fabrics, the industry standard sits around 3–5%. Anything beyond that, and you’ll want to revisit your material choice or finishing method.

BOM — Bill of Materials

The Bill of Materials is your production blueprint. It’s a detailed list of every component in your product — fabrics, zippers, labels, buttons, trims, even thread colors.

Factories rely on the BOM to calculate costs and ensure consistency between production runs. If you’re building a tech pack, your BOM should always be part of it.

GSM — Grams per Square Meter

Think of GSM as fabric weight, not fabric quality. It measures how heavy a material is per square meter.

• T-shirts usually range from 150–300 GSM

• Hoodies start around 300 GSM, going up to 600 GSM for heavyweight fleece

Higher GSM doesn’t mean better quality — it just means thicker fabric.

Understanding Factory Models: CMT vs. OEM

CMT — Cut, Make, Trim

CMT factories are the backbone of garment manufacturing. They handle the sewing and assembly of your garments based on your provided patterns, fabrics, and trims.

If you already have your materials and design ready, a CMT setup gives you maximum control and flexibility.

OEM — Original Equipment Manufacturer

An OEM factory takes it one step further. They don’t just sew — they source materials, manage sub-suppliers, and deliver the final product.

This is ideal for brands that want a full-service custom apparel supplier without micromanaging every stage. Many CMT factories also act as OEM partners, offering both options under one roof.

The moment you understand the language of manufacturing, conversations with your clothing factory change. You’ll ask sharper questions, make smarter decisions, and command more respect from your suppliers.